Westchester Eats

“Know Thy Farmer” is the motto, and you’ll be glad you do!

If you’ve never been on the property where Blue Hill at Stone Barns resides, you should. Located approximately 30 miles north of New York City in Pocantico Hills, this spread is full of life.  It is that life that gives itself up for a local and seasonal culinary experience.

Recently, Stone Barns was showcasing the best of what the season is offering at the moment.  If it is served to you, it most likely was raised/grown on the property.   This close-to-the-source dining and traceability dining is a concept that provides a wake-up call for your taste buds and culinary soul.

Chef/Proprietor Dan Barber was just given the James Beard Award for Outstanding Chef. This is Chef Barber’s third award in three years.

The feast begins with a Chef’s Amuse which in this case were small glasses of a carrot mousse – - not overly sweet and yet woke up the tongue for more hours of eating to come.

Spring vegetables were served fresh from the greenhouse.  Greens and vegetables glistening just so lightly with vinegars and oils were presented on a “wooden brick” with spikes supporting each individual item.  The experience was so respectful to the leaf that it was necessary to “toast” with my dining partner to the experience, just knowing that it was just harvested for us and never had to travel more than a few feet from the garden to our table. Wine pairing was a delicious Holpzapfel ‘Achielten’ Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Wachau, Austria 2006.  Crisp and ready.

The kitchen is a very busy place and almost as large as the dining area itself. Greens are picked moments before serving.  It alters the experience.

Cobia (think coy) arrived on an upright skewer deep fried and looking like the whole fish itself. They were approximately 4 inches long and you devour them head to tail. Not for everyone. It was crisp, not overly flavorful and was paired with rhubarb and what is referred to as a “pig’s ear vinaigrette.” The wine pairing for this course was a Domaine Des Hauts Chassis Crozes Hermitage Rhone, France 2007. This wine is mostly Syrah and has notes of black cherry, smoke and the nicely rounded tannins.

While in seafood mode, the soft shell crab arrived crusted in hazelnuts and served with pickled spring fruits. Again, in the world of eating the whole animal, this was round two. Wine served here was a Lietz “Rudesheimer Berg Schlossbert’ Riesling Spatlese Trocken Rheingau, Germany 2003. Crisp, not overly fruity and a great match with the crab.

The next course was a surprise and it was referred to as, “This Morning’s Farm Egg” paired with red fife, ramps, and a delicious speck. The yolk of a truly fresh egg is shockingly bright and the unctuousness of the fatty center does not want to leave your tongue. No wine pairing here, rather a Cranberry Lambic beer from the Defiant Brewing Company in Pearl River, NY.  The chill and the zing cut through the fatty fresh egg leaving your mouth quite zingy and refreshed.

Lamb neck (yes, lamb neck) arrived looking similar to a set of ribs.  The meat was tender and navigating the bones wasn’t overly difficult but not something most would be used to doing. This was served next to wonderfully al dente farro, freshly harvested asparagus and those short-of-season ramps. Sipping consisted of Faustino Gran Riserva, Rioja, Spain 1996. This blend in intense in color — think bright ruby red.  The nose was quite aromatic with slight notes of glycerine.  What contributes to making this wine so delicious is that it is aged 2 – 3 years in oak casks and then further refined in the bottle for four years before its release. Mostly Tempranillo but also with slight blends of Mazuelo and Graciano. A smooth and velvety wine working well with the lamb neck.

The final savory plate was the Stone Barns Berkshire Pig paired again with fresh asparagus and bordeaux spinach. The pig is so unbelievably tender with hints of smokiness and again, the “freshness” of this locally raised pig was evident in the texture and flavor. Talenti Brunello Di Montalcino Tuscany, Italy 2000 was the wine here. The wine presents ruby red in color, the bouquet is delicate with hints of vanilla and yet red fruit. Warm on the palate. A bigger wine which complemented the pork.

Three desserts were delivered to the table. First was tender rhubarb with an elderflower, cassis and quark cheese sorbet.  Absolutely delicate and delicious.

Second dessert consisted of Asparagus Ice Cream which doesn’t make one generally jump up and down to try, but was perfectly sweetened, the color was gorgeous and was served with a cake of parsnip, pine nuts, and pickled fiddle head ferns. A strange yet magical offering.

Finally, Frozen Mint Marshmallows (hooray!) paired with strawberries and a mint sorbet. A wine completed the meal consisting of a Macari “Block E” Chardonnay Ice Wine, New York 2005. This wine was a fun after dinner sipper. The nose consists of aromas of melon, pear, and even apples. A very “clean” easy drinking wine from Long Island’s North Fork.

Service was completely friendly, distinguished, and attentive. This is the place to go when you have that special moment, an anniversary, a milestone birthday, or you just want to drop a few hundred dollars and be carried away in a magical experience.

In addition, there is a beautiful bar area with wines by the glass, mostly starting at approximately $22 per. Also, they have infused libations such as macerating fruit in various vodkas.

Dining at Stone Barns is truly a unique experience and you pay for it.  The Farmers Feast mentioned above runs $125 per person with an additional $95 per person charge for wine pairing. So you’re in for $450 before tax and tip.

Croton-on-Hudson has a new farmers market in town. Although it appears to be a stand-alone, it is really part of a larger community of markets.  In fact, Community Markets is an umbrella organization which has dedicated itself to creating local markets for organic, sustainable food – - produce, honeys, and meats. These markets are scattered all across Westchester and at the time of this writing, there are nine in the county and two in Rockland. Others exist outside of the area.

The market in Croton which is open on Wednesdays from 2PM – 7PM is working out the kinks. Parking is one of the biggest knots to be rectified. I find it puzzling that two uniformed, gun carrying trained officers are utilized to direct parking at a small lot market in Croton? This clearly is a waste of the community’s valuable resources. When I mentioned to the officer that it would be nice if people could park across the street by the Chase bank, which has ample space, he replied, “Oh you can.”  I pointed out that signs indicate the need for a parking permit or risk a tow/fine. He then chuckled and said, “When this market is open, you can park there.”

The frustration here about a market that should be welcomed with open arms is the lack of attention to operational details. I guess shoppers are to assume they can park in the forbidden lot since there is no signage whatsoever, nor did any officer directing the crazed mix of cars backing-up and pedestrians navigating their way into the space mention its open availability.

The market has potential. You may be a bit accosted trying to enter the chain linked small space to find your fresh produce with people attempting to hand you flyers, brochures, notices and the like. To the effort and spirit of such a market, stop killing the trees, and post a website for those interested. Consumers should be able to opt-in, and not be forced to stop, and say, “No, thank you” every few feet.

There are a few stands of fresh produce, and a recent offering of freshly picked cherries was delicious.

The pickle guys are a funny/hardy sort and their products including sauerkraut are done well.

There is local honey sold there, which is a good remedy for your local allergies.

If you are a fan of nut butters, one vendor sells plenty and they are delicious!

Another stand sells and provides tastings of wine from Millbrook Vineyards & Winery. In addition, the stand operator was providing tastings of cold pressed olive oil. The oil, which is quite nice, sells for $25 per 500mL. There is just one problem, she had none to sell. So once again, the shopper is teased with a taste and there is none available? Put it away and bring it out when you’re ready to play.

Where would we be without the wonderful breads from Bread Alone‘s Dan Leader. This Catskill staple is a welcome addition to the market and his products remain consistent.

In a nutshell, the market is a new neighbor that hopefully will stay awhile, and be kind to the community in every aspect. However, the physical shopping space is too limiting and lacks potential for successful expansion, the parking issue is only going to get worse once people find out about it – - that is, if you can actually make it on a Wednesday between two and seven – - oh, perhaps you work for a living? So this market may not be for you.

Give it a go, and let us know your thoughts.