Archive for January, 2008

Holy Smoke, Batman…

Sunday, January 27th, 2008

When tragedy struck the World Trade Center on 9/11, Chris Casino walked away from the destruction along with his huge trading job, and decided that new priorities were in order. 

Tucked away on 6N in Mahopac, NY is a wonderful find.  The place is called Holy Smoke.  On the board a sign reads a 1735 quote by English poet Alexander Pope, “Send me, gods, a whole hog barbecued.”  Task accomplished if that’s what you’re looking for.

Holy Smoke is outfitted with a smoke pit containing a huge stainless steel smoker.  This monster of a smoker runs anywhere from 18 hours a day to almost non-stop depending upon the season.  Native woods are soaked and then placed into the contraption along with hundreds of pounds of meat everyday.  Overnight, the meat is smoked to perfection creating a pink ring assuring you that this is good “Q.”

The restaurant is charming.  Red and white checkered curtains brighten the wooden dining room.  Adjacent is a decent sized bar with a few tables in the same area.  Each table is adorned with an ample supply of napkins, wet wipes, and two house sauces.  First there is the standard bbq sauce which has essences of molasses and even slight coffee.  My favorite is the mustard sauce which provides a tangy zip to meat which really needs no additional toppings, but this just pushes it in another direction.

Beer FlightThe bar has a beer list that is almost overwhelming.  There are approximately 18 interesting taps (no Coors, Bud or Miller in these kegs)!  As many fine restaurants hand you a wine book, you’ll be presented with a beer offering that is pages long and the most diverse in the area.  Beers from all over the world including some very interesting lambics, Chimays, and Belgian Trappists.  Some beers actually pushing upwards of 12% alcohol by volume.  Not sure what you’ll want?  Just ask and you will be given a taste to help guide your palate.  In addition, you can order a flight of four beers served on a board in order from lightest to heaviest – - your own private tasting.

Chicken wings at Holy Smoke are none like you’ve ever had. They are rubbed with an interesting spice mixture that has a slight heat kick.  The wings are then smoked for hours becoming almost pink and ham-like on the inside. Then they go for a final “swim” in one of two sauces if you’d like:  Hot or bbq.

The onion rings are made with sweet vidalias and the batter is made from a dark brown ale and fried to a delicious crisp. Sweet potato fries are another option, but the rings are better.

Chris offers two styles of ribs, St. Louis and Baby Back.  As for the St. Louis ribs,  they are smoked for a minimum of 8 hours over native hardwoods.  They are on the lean side and are fantastic.  Although they are offered in three sizes (half slab, 3/4 slab, and full slab), you’ll be hard-pressed to go for anything but the full rack.  As for the baby back ribs which are tender and smoky, they get about 5 hours of tender loving care. The “babies” are only available as a full rack and you wouldn’t regret it anyway.

Chris has his method down to a science.  His pork and brisket receive a minimum of 17 hours of smoking.  Homemade chorizo between stuffing the casings and smoking, becomes a two-day affair and the results are memorable.

Pulled PorkOf course there is Carolina Pulled Pork which comes as an enormous portion.  It is moist and the house sauces complement it well.

When ordering a main course you get a choice of two sides.  There are many to choose from.  Stay away from the apple sauce, it is uninteresting and more on the commercial (not house made) side despite the claim.  I recommend the creamed spinach which is made with a creamy soft Italian cheese and just fills your mouth with goodness – - a fantastic texture.  The coleslaw comes overflowing in a large ramekin.  The size of the shred is great but could use a bit more zip in the flavor. The baked beans are fantastic with little chunks of bbq meat throughout.

Finish your meal with one of their homemade pie specials, good stuff.

Certainly there are chicken dishes and burgers and the classic NY strip, but why go there when you can feast on true American bbq.  The real native dish of our country.

The sign on the restaurant reads, “Sinfully Fine Fare.”  You’re not kidding, Chris!

Holy Smoke

21 Route 6N

Mahopac, NY 10541

845-628-9795

HOURS
Mon.                 Closed
Tues.-Thurs.   11:30-9:00
Fri.- Sat.          11:30-10:00
Sunday:           12:00-9:00

44 Tapas Lounge

Sunday, January 6th, 2008

Gambas

Few places take a town by storm like the recent arrival of 44 Tapas Lounge (or just “44″ as locals refer to it) in Croton-on-Hudson.  The space formerly occupied by Salsa and most recently, Agave Azul, has come alive for area residents starving for a new venue.Co-owners Patrick Farley and Kyle Gallagher stepped in to create a restaurant/lounge centered around the Mediterranean concept of tapas or “small plates.” 

To newcomers, the origin of tapas began in Spanish taverns where patrons would cover their glasses of sweet sherry or wine with a small piece of flat bread to stave off fruit flies between sips.  Over time, tavern owners began placing small savory bites of food on top of the flat bread pieces for customers to snack upon.  Other cultures in the Mediterranean region adopted their own versions, too.  In Italy, they are referred to as piattini, and in eastern regions, you will find them called mezze. Whatever you choose to call them, they are simply prepared, delicious, and a great way to sample your way through interesting flavors and a great glass of wine.

 Anyway, back to 44.

 The color scheme remains the same as does much of the decor.  They have enhanced the environment with the use of votives on the walls, tables, and bar.  The barstools have been replaced by more stylish brown leather seating. The main entrance has been outfitted with comfy leather banquettes and side cubes to place your tapas and cocktail. Certainly, this has added to the lounge factor of the restaurant. The former agave field murals, were painted over  by artist, Michael Farley, with a modern abstract twist. Michael Farley presently studies at Maryland Institute College of Art.  Ambience has been kicked up a notch by intoxicating lounge music – - think Moby.

The owners are up to the task of making sure you are enjoying your experience as well as the likes of Jessica and Brie always with a smile, easy on the eye, and usually moving to the rhythm of the music.

New Year’s Eve was an evening to remember at 44.

In addition to their tapas offerings and other regular main courses, they composed a delicious menu just for the occasion.  Appetizers included pan seared Hudson Valley foie gras topped with a black mission fig chutney resting upon a truffled round of polenta.  Jumbo shrimp were the perfect foil for the creamy horseradish sauce served in a martini glass.  Finally, there was grilled quail with hints of thyme and rosemary served over a mixture of roasted shallots and garlic all resting on a bed of basmati.

Entree offerings consisted of an oven roasted New Zealand baby rack of lamb.  The lamb was crusted with black truffles and served with mashed potatoes made with roasted garlic and paired with tender marinated grilled asparagus. Next was the free range slow roasted cornish game hen.  The hen was roasted at about 240 degrees over many hours receiving a drizzling bath of a caramelized spicy apple glaze every 15 minutes by attentive chefs, Brian Newman and Gabriel Pollow.  The result was a crispy skinned bird the color of mahogany. The meat, juicy and tender. This was complemented by a basmati rice, pear, and raisin combination.  Finally, a grilled marinated veal chop of substantial size topped with a rosemary and crimini mushroom demi-glace.  There was a gorgonzola cream sauce for dipping along with truffled mashed potatoes.

Their wine list is presently the best and most diverse in town, pours are generous and prices in good order.

The evening was buzzing and the place was hopping.  Kacie on the waitstaff had a can-do attitude.  She worked like a machine and held her own.

A dj was brought to the scene and spun vinyl, yes… vinyl, all evening. Post-dining, tables were moved to the periphery and the floor became a stage for dancing, appreciating friends while allowing the cocktails and wine to carry one into 2008.

A newcomer has arrived in Croton and you would be doing yourself a disservice if you didn’t extend your welcome.

 44 Tapas Lounge

44 Maple Street

Croton-on-Hudson, NY 10520

914-271-2690

Gritty Reporting from the Wilds of Westchester