Croton Creek Steakhouse & Wine Bar
Sunday, April 1st, 2007A train ride on the Harlem Line or a car ride on 684 and off of 22 will land you in Croton Falls – - a charming community with a new eatery. The restaurant resides in a 132 year-old building which has spent most of those years as various bar incarnations.
Owners, Jim Stake, Liam Harvey, chef-owner Eric Kupferberg, and Kimberly Locke (a former American Idol finalist) re-tooled the location opening a “steak boutique and wine bar.”
The restaurant is nicely appointed. The original brick walls work well with warm, muted colors. The bar provides seating for both drinking and eating. There are modern leather sofas and the lighting is whimsical. The ”WC” is well designed, clean and the sinks bring a smile to your face. The overall space is small and the bar is separate from the main dining area. However, there are a few available tables by the bar if you can snag one. This place has caught on and fills quickly. Reservations are not accepted.
The eatery accommodates about 50 or so and can get noisy. The wait staff is very attentive – - and owners Stake and Harvey are very present meeting and seating patrons and serving, too. There have been no Locke sightings of late.
A trip to the gym is in order to be able to lift the weighted water glass placed in front of you. The wine list is substantial, varied, and most are on the pricier side. There are more than thirty wines available by the glass.
The evening’s specials are noted on a card found with the regular menu at your place setting. Each item on the card recommends a beverage pairing – - which could be wine, a specialty martini, or beer. Wine is served in larger glasses which creates a romantic and yet “we come from abundance” feeling. The martini menu is inventive, and if a sweeter-tini is good for you, then try the Absolut Pears & almond martini with its sugared rim. If you like a good Belvedere or Grey Goose straight-up with a twist (or olives), then go for it – - there is something for every taste.
An experience here is not inexpensive. Entrees range between $22 and $42. Once you’ve ordered your steak, you then select your side dishes which are suitable for sharing with another person. Creamed spinach, wild mushrooms, and mixed vegetables are just some of the options. Next, you select your a la carte sauce which could be demi-glace of Syrah, stilton cheese, or perhaps green peppercorn brandy among others. Another choice could be a composed butter, that melts down and around the sides of your steak.
If you’re not in the mood for steak, the menu has a section referred to as “Compositions.” Under this category, you’ll find lamb chops, halibut, salmon (served as a timbale with an olive tapenade crowning the top surface). In the mood for a burger? Then go for a bison burger, or perhaps the Kobe beef burger, which arrives as a tower with Swiss cheese, frizzled onions, smokey apple wood bacon and served on a roll of brioche. French fries and a small mixed green salad are also on the plate.
Overall, my favorite part experience was the sharing of fondue made from a farmhouse cheese. It comes in a bubbling pot with chunks of bread for dipping. It is as flavorful as any fondue I have had in Switzerland and is enhanced by ordering the grilled vegetables ($5) and the very flavorful beef tips ($10).
Notes:
The wait staff is very friendly.
The Kobe burger arrives and the plate becomes a disaster as one tries to eat it with knife and fork. The tower is too tall to attempt eating regular burger style. It arrived with fries at room temperature and the burger, too. A $26 burger should be presented warm, just off the grill. They quickly fixed the situation by running it under the broiler – - the entire plate – -as evidenced by my now very “browned brioche” and newly warmed salad greens – - oops.
The steak frites made of pricey Kobe beef ($42) was ordered medium rare per the recommendation. The steak was delivered medium rare around the tips but was rare if almost not cooked whatsoever in the middle. This, too, was sent back for further attention.
Salmon arrives nicely presented but is on the dry side and would benefit from a sauce recommendation.
Friday and Saturday night brings on an interesting crowd of 11PM – 1AM diners (perhaps dining before heading down to Manhattan or up to Connecticut for a long night out). There is a special menu just for that time slot.
Check it out. There are a few kinks to work out, however. My recommendation: Eat at the bar with a friend, have an interesting cocktail or two and work your way through some appetizers. This will give you a hint before deciding to plunge into the more expensive venture.
Croton Creek Steakhouse & Wine Bar
4 West Cross Street
Croton Falls, NY 10519
Phone: 914-276-0437