Coco Rumbas – - flavorful disappointments
Sunday, January 14th, 2007Have you ever been enticed into a restaurant? Coco Rumbas will do that to you. The decor is warm and Latin. Beautifully appointed with muted yellows along with a fun use of space and authentic furniture, you feel as if you’ve ventured to Havana in its prime.
The menu is promising. The arepas (corn fritters) appetizer mixed with onion and tomatoes makes the stomach rumble. A look at the ceviche offerings lets you know that you cannot leave without sampling. Certainly a healthy offering of tapas can only be a great experience waiting to happen.
Each time there, we are greeted enthusiastically at the door and rushed to a table and provided menus. The standard, “What can we get you to drink?” and off they go. After quite a wait, the drinks arrive. Mojitos and caipirinhas. Coco Rumba’s tagline is “Cuban Cuisine.” Caipirinhas were surprising to find on the menu since they are a favorite of Brazil – - but whatever, it is a unique and powerful drink and not often found in these parts. Both drinks were highly “watered down.” The mojito lacked any ooomph with sparse mint and lime flavors. The caipirinha just wasn’t a caipirinha – - flat with no punch. A caipirinha should be bold and refreshing at the same time.
While waiting for the orders to arrive (a long time…), you are left with a basket of what appear to be crackers similar in size and look to sand dollars. To accompany them is a dip of black bean which is pureed and full of earthy flavors. Just one problem. The cracker is so huge it cannot make its way into the dipping bowl. Any attempt to break the cracker and overcome this problem causes it to shatter rendering it not useful.
The ceviche arrives packed with flavor, yet the portion is not worth the pricetag.
The inside of the emapanadas is tasty – - a combination of beef, chicken and mushrooms. The pastry around the filling is too thick, dry and uninteresting to eat. One recommendation which is worthwhile is the Gambas al Ajillo which basically is grilled shrimp in a bath of olive oil, crushed red pepper, parsley, and paprika. The heat is right and the taste is all there.
Main course dishes do not disappoint. They are big on flavor and the presentation is considered. Everything from the glazed salmon to the bistec (New York Steak) paired with yuca fries will grab you. In my opinion the yuca fries would benefit from an offering of interesting dips or Latin inspired flavored vinegars. There is even a wild mushroom paella for the vegetarian in your life.
Done with your drink? Track down the waitstaff if you can. They are good at attending to the water service – - but lack follow-up on your overall experience.
Coco Rumbas was beautifully designed and the menu given much attention. The quality of service, disappointing drinks (and a mojito should never disappoint) is unfortunate. Go there, check it out. I’ve made several attempts only to find consistency in the problem areas.
Coco Rumba’s Cuban Cuisine
443 Lexington Avenue
Mt. Kisco, NY 10549
914-241-2299