Westchester Eats

She didn’t have it, now she’s found it.  The former sliver vacuum cleaner repair shop was converted by Jeff Matros, Karen Ferencz, and Andreas Nowara into a dining spot of great potential.

The opening of Memphis Mae’s BBQ Bistro back in March of 2006, lacked oomph.  There were no more than three wines offered and all Yellowtail (although nothing wrong with Yellowtail wines).  As you may know, my big whine, is wine not handled correctly.  All on the counter taking on the room’s warmth.  There were a few beer offerings which is a good choice for a BBQ joint.

My first meals at Memphis Mae’s were rough…. Straight up, the dishes had huge potential.  I am talkin’ about quality ingredients and all the makings for a great experience.  One problem consistently was the missing component in the foundation of cooking – - the seasoning (we’re talking salt & pepper).

Trained cooks/chefs know to season the ingredients as they go along, layer-by-layer making sure that there is an evenly balanced dish.  The food here was flat.  Everything from vegetable sides, to sauces, and the bbq itself.  All you got was smoke and there was nothing dancing on the tongue or allowing the natural flavor of the foods to round them out in the mouth.

I took a Croton bbq break for a period and have finally returned for another round. Something rectified the situation considerably.  Memphis Mae’s got her groove back by cooking with more skill and consideration. 

I am happy to report some exciting changes.

The wine list has greatly expanded and they even offer pinot noir and malbec!  My whine will drone on as long as they keep their offerings on top of the counter, however… Blah, blah and more blah.

The beer selections have grown, too.  Among draught and bottled beers there are some intriguing selections.  I love the Belgian Trappist Monk offerings. The Abita from New Orleans kicks butt with its lightly amber and caramel notes.  Beers are refreshingly served in iced and frosty pint glasses.

Mae’s decor has always been primo.  They converted this dingy box into a nice bistro.  Colors reminiscent of Tuscany… deep darker yellows with a sienna overhang above the main counter complement the plumish/lavender wainscoting.  The ceiling is a crenellated bronze number with a ceiling fan system that is pure entertainment.  Each works in tandem and is propelled by an inventive wheel/axle/pulley system.  The walls are dotted with colorful prints, some signed and numbered, of various music-fests across Memphis. Flooring here is blond birch plank giving the place the benefit of lightness and brightness.

The tables are of good size and chairs have squishy comfortable seats for the weary behind.  Salt and pepper shakers and three squirt bottles, each containing a different sauce, rest on each tabletop.  One is champagne vinegar with red chili flakes, another is an herb seasoned mustard sauce, and finally a chipotle-like smoky red sauce. Tables lack extra napkins or packages of “wet wipes” for sauced fingers. A bbq faux pas.

Above the main counter is an enormous chalkboard featuring all menu items and specials.  Next is a large mirror just above the wainscoting with bottled beer samplings visually displayed.

The last couple of times I’ve eaten there, they were not utilizing their expensive audio system.  Toward the end of my last meal, some jazz/blues were finally piped through the place.  It dramatically added to the ambience.

The food

The Mississippi Catfish is tasty.  It is lightly and crisply breaded in cornmeal and deep-fried.  There is no greasiness here and the seasonings are balanced.  The breading is just right and the catfish flavor comes through.  No need for any sauces.  Even the accompanying tarter sauce – - which tastes like cornichon mayo, can be left behind.

Teriyaki BBQ Glazed Salmon is a beautiful, well-sized portion. It is wasted by the glaze, which is too sugary, with hints of cinnamon, masking the salmon’s savory qualities.

The Fried Pickles made me laugh!  The menu says they are placed into a jalapeño brine for 36 hours; battered and fried.  The breading was a touch on the oily side; but the inside revealed a crisp pickle.  The first bite is exciting and then is followed by some heat that creeps up on you after a few seconds at the backside of the tongue and throat – - cayenne.

A vinegar-based coleslaw was disappointing.  The vegetables hold promise and are well shredded and crisp.  The top of the coleslaw was completely dry with the vinaigrette at the bottom of the ramekin.  Rather than prepare in advance, it should be continually tossed with the sauce and plated to order.

Brisket has never been a favorite of mine but I tried it again nonetheless.  It can be cooked and tender/moist – - but that isn’t an easy task.  The brisket I was served reinforced my feelings about it. The meat was too dry.  The presentation was eye catching – - thinly sliced across the diagonal and symmetrically juxtaposed forming a sort of “boat” shape.  Sauce, sickeningly sweet, was drizzled over the top.  The sugar was so present and mouth forward, I couldn’t take it.

Memphis Style Ribs are cooked low and slow and the smoky essence is quite noticeable.  Rather than “fall off the bone” ours were “wrestle off the bone.”  We ordered them dry to taste the meat for what it was in order to focus on the cooking technique rather than taste a piece of meat hiding in sauce. It was evident that after smoking, these ribs were grilled to the point of blackened (charred) – - This is where the bottled table sauces become a requirement to keep things interesting.

Now we move on to my favorite, the Carolina Pulled Pork.  This meat was perfectly seasoned, smoked low and slow and should be savored as is – - no additional sauces, etc.  This was a Wow.

The dishes were accompanied by a nice square of cornbread.  The cornbread was reasonably moist.  The best part about the browned and caramelized top-crust is that it tastes like candy.  That and a little fresh butter would have worked for me!

A lack-luster item was the Hoppin’ John Rice.  This side has onions, peppers, celery, and black-eyed peas.  More seasoning here please – - as is, quite uninteresting.

Comfort food lovers unite!  You will love the Smashed Golden Skins.  These are yellow potatoes (Yukon?) which are smashed with the skin on and served with your choice of gravy or “no gravy.”  I asked for the gravy, which came on the side.  The gravy obviously begins with a roux and there was no residual flour taste, to their credit.  This is a white sauce, that took me back to my younger years eating chicken fried steak.  This was a pleasant treat.

Desserts are intriguing.  One item of note is the Banana Bites. These are little battered deep fried squares containing a cheesecake like concoction (they say banana pudding) with a small brown-sugared banana slice resting atop.  They are accompanied by a melted chocolate sauce.  This is a whimsical dessert – - simple yet ingenious.  Coffee is from Croton’s local Black Cow.  Always good to collaborate with local merchants.

Memphis Mae’s got her groove back – - thankfully. 

A bbq bistro is a great addition to this community and I hope they continue to keep adding more groove to the repertoire.

Memphis Mae’s BBQ Bistro
173 South Riverside Avenue, Croton-on-Hudson, NY, 914-271-0125

(http://www.memphismaes.com/)
Todd Alan is Westchester Eat’s critic for all things to stuff into your mouth, gadgetry to play with in the kitchen, and all things food.  We make him eat crap so you don’t have to.

This soup is easy to prepare and rings in fall with a smoky stomach-warming, “Hello.”

2 andouille sausages cut into ¼ to ½ inch dice
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, cut into ¼ inch dice
2 carrots cut into ¼ inch rounds
2 stalks celery, cut into ¼ inch slices
4 garlic cloves minced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon fresh rosemary minced
¼ tsp. ground cayenne pepper
½ cup dry white wine (Sauvignon Blanc)
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
8 cups chicken stock (or 2, 32 oz. containers of low sodium chicken broth)
1 can (15 oz.) cannelloni beans
2 bay leaves
Optional:  1 rind of parmegiano reggiano cheese
1 can (15 oz.) navy beans
1 ½ cups short tube pasta (i.e., tubetti, or elbow)
¼ chopped fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley

In a Dutch oven, over medium-high heat, sauté the andouille sausage until the outside skin begins to brown. 

Remove sausage to a plate. 

Add more olive oil if needed and sauté the onion, carrots, and celery with a dusting of salt and freshly ground pepper. 

Stir occasionally until the vegetables sweat and begin to cook down, about 5-minutes. 

Add rosemary, garlic, cayenne, and tomato paste.  Stir while sautéing to release the oils and essence of each, about 1 ½ minutes.

Add the wine and scrape the brown flavor nubs (the fond) from the sides and bottom of the pan to release them, about 2 minutes. 

Lower the heat to medium. 

Add chicken stock (or broth), the cannelloni beans, and bay leaves, and if using, the cheese rind.  Stir gently to incorporate. 

Bring to a simmer and cook for approximately 30 minutes uncovered to allow soup to reduce. 

Remove rind and bay leaves. 

Using an immersion blender, pulse to puree and thicken the soup (if you don’t have an immersion blender – - get one!)  Until then, you can use a potato masher to puree some of the mixture.

Add the navy beans; bring the soup back to a simmer. 

Add the pasta and cook according to directions until the pasta is al dente. 

Taste soup and adjust seasonings as desired. 

Ladle soup into bowls and sprinkle with freshly chopped parsley. 

One nice touch is to put a piece of toasted artisan bread at the bottom of each bowl and ladle the soup over.  In addition, feel free to grate parmegiano reggiano cheese over each bowl of soup for added texture and flavor.

Cook along with Todd on your iPod.  We call this Simple & Fresh!  Get the ingredients, read the recipe, and cook together! 

Ceviche is a traditional dish of latin origin.  It is very refreshing in the summer or when firm white seafood is fresh and at its best. 

I use bay scallops in this recipe, but you can use shrimp, pompano, squid, or whatever similar seafood you prefer.

The seafood “cooks” in the acidity of the citrus.  You want to use a high acid citrus to do this.  It is ok, to add a splash of orange juice, but the acid level of the base must remain high to properly “cook” the fish.

When selecting scallops, look for firm, white, odorless, scallops.  Ask your fishmonger to let you smell them first to ensure they are odorless.

I recommend using vine-ripened tomatoes and only the freshest ingredients for this dish.  I would not use anything from a jar or can here.  If sea salt is not available, kosher salt would be the next preference 

This dish is so fresh and easy to make.

Get into the Kitchen!

Ceviche  

Servings:  Depending upon how hungry you are, this recipe will serve 4 as an appetizer or 2 as a main course.

1 lb. bay scallops (or other appropriate fish of choice)
1 ½ cups freshly squeezed lime juice (approx. 6 – 8 limes), strained
1 lb. tomatoes (preferably 2 medium vine-ripened tomatoes), seeded and juice removed, in ¾ inch dice
2 jalapeños, veins removed, seeded, and finely minced
¼ cup (or more to taste) finely diced sweet onion – - i.e., Vidalia
1/3 cup cilantro (carefully cleaned and chopped or cut into a chiffonade)
¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper (medium grind)
Optional:  6 – 8 leaves of Boston or butter lettuce, well cleaned
EVOO (extra virgin olive oil) as desired
Sea salt, best quality

DIRECTIONS:

1. In a large bowl, rinse the scallops gently using a few changes of water. I like to float a lemon slice or two in the final soaking water, but it is not necessary. The scallops will remain soaking in the water bowl while the other ingredients are prepared.
2. Once all other ingredients are prepared for use, drain the scallops.
3. Slice each scallop into equally portioned sizes so they will “cook” evenly.
4. Place scallops into a 9×13 non-reactive baking dish so each one rests on the bottom of the pan (we don’t want the scallops to be stacked).
5. Sprinkle diced onions evenly over the top of scallops.
6. Pour lime juice over the mixture to cover scallops.  Each scallop should be lightly floating yet covered so the surface area of each scallop is exposed to the lime juice.
7. Cover baking dish with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for about 45 minutes.  Cut into one scallop to see if it is opaque throughout.  If more time is needed, continue for another 10 – 15 minutes, checking until the desired consistency is reached – - being careful to not let them “overcook.”
8. In a non-reactive bowl, combine tomatoes, jalapeño, onion, cilantro and pepper.  Mix thoroughly.
9. Using a fine strainer, pour off the lime juice leaving just the onions and scallops.
10. Gently fold scallops and onions into the tomato mixture until incorporated.
11. Line chilled small serving bowls (or dessert cups) with a layer of lettuce leaves.
12. Spoon the ceviche over lettuce leaves to desired portions making sure to get the juices from the bottom of the bowl of the tomato mixture.
13. Lightly season the top of each serving with a sprinkling of best quality sea salt and a drizzle of EVOO.

Enjoy, eat well and be well!

Todd Alan is Westchester Eat’s critic for all things to stuff into your mouth, gadgetry to play with in the kitchen, and all things food.  We make him eat crap so you don’t have to.