Tarry Lodge

18 Mill Street

Port Chester NY 10573

914.939.3111

The unstoppable team of Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich and his mother, Lidia, in collaboration with original Eataly (Torino, Italy) founder Oscar Farinetti have really done it this time. They have created an Italian mecca consisting of 50,000 square feet of all things Italian.

Eataly is located at 200 Fifth Ave., between 23rd and 24th Streets which used to contain the Toy Building. The space is enormous.

Not only eating will happen here among its several restaurants, including a reservation-only aged steak house referred to as Manzo, but housewares, a scuola, where Lidia is the Dean of Studies, and so much more. Fresh pastas are made daily on-site, along with a market consisting of Italian sweets, honeys, jams, produce (locally grown), and olive oils, and even housewares. There are mini-shops within, including a gelateria, a wine shop carrying only Italian wines including many made by the Bastianich family’s estates in Tuscany and Friuli. All things Italian.

In the mood to cook but running short on time? Grab the very diverse and fresh local produce inside Eataly, and make your way to the Vegetable Butcher where she will clean, trim, and chop your ingredients as needed for your dish. Oh… At no extra charge.

Speaking of charges, the buzz among first day customers was that the pricing does not seem to be higher than any other regular shopping venue in NY including places like Whole Foods, etc. Also, many were tickled to see that employees were all running around in the trademark orange Crocs always worn by Mario.

(final photo story at end of article)

On the website, Eataly proclaims its foundations and extrapolates on each of them. They say:

• WE’RE IN LOVE WITH FOOD
• FOOD UNITES US ALL
• OUR PASSION HAS BECOME OUR JOB
• THE SECRET TO QUALITY OF LIFE? QUALITY PRODUCTS
• OUR TARGET AUDIENCE IS EVERYONE
• EAT. SHOP. LEARN.
• YOU ARE OUR CO-PRODUCERS
• OUR THREE PROMISES TO YOU (Choice, Accessibility of best products at lowest prices, and Knowledge of what is sold)
• YOUR TRUST IS EARNED EVERY DAY

Yesterday’s opening was heralded by Mario, Joe, Lidia and NYC Mayor Michael Bloomberg who cut the pasta ribbon after a blessing given by Archbishop Dolan.

Comments heard were, “Amazing”, “Over-the-top!”, and “Outstanding”.

A source informed me this morning that early-on, a line had formed waiting for the doors to open in order to assault the espresso counters so that New Yorkers could get their daily espresso fix. It appears that while inside Eataly, no matter the ethnic background, each of us is an Italian.

Just the day before... still getting ready

Crowds waiting for the doors to finally open

Every so many feet, another espresso opportunity!

Yes, there is a gelateria to help us keep up our strength

Lidia herself positioned at one entrance to greet new patrons

Espresso doppio?

Fresh pasta made daily

Fishmongers at the ready

A light Oyster snack in the "raw bar" area called "Il Crudo"

Hand crafted soups and brodos

Mario among the masses

Roasted Corn Bruschetta

Joe Bastianich contemplating the flow of operations

Pesto Lasagne with toasted pignolli

Stuffed Piquillo Peppers

The wood burning oven that turns out delicious pani (breads)!

Photo source: Nicholas Schwartz

Chopped salads are all the rage again! This one will have you saying, “Food for life…” Delicious and satisfying, yet simple.

Vinaigrette

• 4 cloves garlic
• 2 tablespoons dried oregano
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice, or juice of 1 lemon
• 1/4 cup good red wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1. Roughly chop the garlic and then add the oregano, salt and pepper. Chop the mixture together and use the side of a knife or a mortar and pestle to make a grainy herb paste.

2. Transfer the paste to a large salad bowl, and add the lemon juice and vinegar. Mix with a fork, allowing the salt to dissolve, then add the oil and whisk with a fork until well combined. The dressing should be thick with garlic and oregano.

Salad & Assembly

• 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained
• 1 red onion, peeled and sliced into fine rings
• 1/2 pound provolone, sliced 1/4 -inch thick then cut into 1/2 -inch ribbons
• 1/2 pound salami, peeled, sliced 1/4 -inch thick then cut into 1/2 -inch ribbons
• 4 medium or 8 small pickled pepperoncini, sliced into rings
• 3/4 pound cherry tomatoes
• Sea salt
• 1 head romaine lettuce, cored, and cut in ribbons 1/4 – to 1/2 -inch wide
• 1 head radicchio, cored and cut in ribbons 1/4 – to 1/2 -inch wide
• 2 tablespoons dried oregano for garnish (optional, preferably Sicilian or Turkish)
• 1. Gently fold the chickpeas, red onion, provolone, salami, pepperoncini (including seeds and juice) into the dressing, one at a time. Halve the tomatoes lengthwise and season with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Set aside until ready to serve.
• 2. When ready to serve, gently add the tomatoes, lettuce and radicchio to the salad bowl, along with a couple of generous pinches of oregano, and toss to combine with the dressing. Grate Parmigiano Reggiano over the top (or pecorino romano depending on your taste)… Serve immediately.

• #1 We are raffling off a CASK of Troges Nugget Nectar. This is a very hard beer to get let alone have it in CASK form.

• #2 We are raffling off one of our famous 50 lb smoked whole pigs. You pick the date and you will have a feast and all the Original Holy Smoke BBQ sauce you need for dipping.

Tomatillo, a little eatery in Dobbs Ferry, does not feature authentic Mexican cuisine overall; but local produce and the inspiration for fresh innovative fare serve it well. Many of their seasonal ingredients come right from the Hudson Valley including organic produce from the impressive Stone Barns Center.

The restaurant is small in square footage and features a very high crenulated ceiling which can raise noise levels a bit when busy. Walls complement one another with bright yellows, oranges, and greens. Funky little sculptures hang playfully from the walls providing a little smile and whimsy. What the giraffe in ballet slippers has to do with “Mexican” food is just another statement that you are not in Mexico, this is “Mexchester” as the verbiage on the sign notes.

The vibe is light. You most likely will be seated by friendly faces eager to get you into your meal. Once seated, freshly made tortilla chips arrive at the table with a bright red flavorful salsa. Glancing at the menu, one might want to try the guacamole which is made daily. The “guac” was good but needed a little fresh lime juice blended into it. A few squeezes brought it up-to-snuff.

Looking to the counter area, you will notice fresh beers on tap and a huge selection by the bottle. The beer list features the local brews of Captain Lawrence and interesting not-so-usual offerings. For example, take the delicious and refreshing Allagash White from Maine, or the interesting flavors of Brooklyn brewed Kelso’s Saison. Wine and good quality tequilas are available too.

A quesadilla is a good first choice. They are offered with numerous fillings and choice of sauces. One option is to have it filled with grilled skirt steak. It was so wonderfully smoky and tender, accompanied with cilantro pesto for spreading or dipping. If you like cilantro, you will be pleased as it paired well with the skirt steak and tortilla, hot from the griddle.

Next up, tacos of all kinds. Again, choice of sauces/salsas. If you move through the menu you may want to consider making good choices while matching sauces to fillings so as not to repeat a combination. Although they offer several sauces, it can be a bit challenging. You can order two tacos for one price which are served with Spanish rice and black beans. One option is the bean taco with lettuce, pico de gallo (very small dollop here, could have been more substantial) and what they call a BBQ chipotle sauce. The sauce was a nice surprise. BBQ sauces can be a bit on the sweet side and this was not. Also there was a slight element of heat from the chipotle but not overbearing and of course the wonderfully smoky characteristic of chipotle (a smoked jalapeño). Taco number two was the fish taco which was lightly fried in a cornmeal crust. Very light, very tender. This is served with a tomatillo sauce. The tomatillo had it characteristically tangy bite. The tortillas were very traditional and made from masa harina.

A dish called the three tamales may catch your interest and consider giving it a whirl. The tamales, when presented were already removed from the husk with a spooning of the paired sauce. These savory tamales were tender and beautifully steamed with just enough savory filling to complement. Filling and sauce combos consisted of: Chicken and mole, pork and chipotle, poblano and serrano. Although portions were small, the masa can be filling and this is a fun dish to share with a friend.

Burritos are “build your own”. If the idea of constructing your own is daunting, they offer eighteen choices already designed for you with fun names like “Mister Shrimp, Earth ‘n’ Turf, or Syd Fishus.” The Iron Man burrito was quite good. The burrito’s size is a bit much for one person. This one was stuffed with grilled skirt steak, red peppers, rice, pinto beans, and chipotle. It had a bit of a zing, so the icy beer was necessary or some iced water on hand. Very filling and a great value at $10.95.

Finally, it was time for homemade flan.  Although a small portion, one really doesn’t “need” bigger. The custard was tender, not rubbery, and it was drenched in that wonderful just slightly sweet and caramelized dulce de leche sauce.

If you’re looking for “authentic” Mexican, this isn’t for you. If you’re looking for Mexican inspired dishes with interesting new twists, then go for it! Just like it’s name, “Tomatillo.” It may look like a tomato on the outside, but it isn’t.

Tomatillo

13 Cedar Street

Dobbs Ferry, NY

914.478.2300

The colors of Orissa are fun, a mix of soft yet deep tones, and can put a smile on your face. They are relaxing. Our server left table choice up to us, so we sat just inside at the edge to feel the breeze. 

Sparkling water or “New York’s Finest Tap” was offered immediately. The menus are weighty. One is dining, the other is strictly wine and beer selections. King Fisher, an Indian favorite brew, is on the menu and I was thinking perfect for spicy food. However, looking at the food menu, it seemed that a very light red or a white wine would be in order. I was thinking that a lighter red would be enjoyable so I questioned the intensity of the 2007 French Carmenere. Our server immediately said he’d be back to give us a taste to determine for ourselves. Well done.

The bottle could have been at a better temperature, so our server upon request, gave the bottle a light and short icy bath, and we enjoyed it thoroughly. A good pairing for what was to come. Wine selections are diverse and nicely priced. Many of the wines are also available by the glass.

Perusing the menu, it is clear that the food is Indian/Goan inspired cuisine, not traditional Indian food as most of us know it. The menu was crafted by Hari Nayak who is a CIA graduate and has worked in India and North America. He provides consulting talents. Parents will be pleased to know that there is a very interesting and concise children’s menu consisting of offerings such as naan pizza, grilled kabobs, and a bison burger. The owners are local Dobbs Ferry residents, Niall Cain and Cynthia Caracta. He is an architect by trade and she is a pharmaceutical researcher. They opened the doors, located at 14 Cedar Street, earlier this year.

We began the meal with a most amazing “side dish” which we used as an appetizer. The portion was quite generous, too.  The menu refers to this as Bhindi Amchoor. Thinly sliced cuts of okra which had been fried and dusted with a dry mango powder. In the mix, were sweet/vinegary slices of tomato and onion. Finely chopped stems of cilantro and leaves were integrated throughout. The okra, which can often be slimy in texture, were nicely crisp and the combination was delicious and very refreshing. In addition to the okra concoction were slices of garlic naan and a ramekin containing a cooked down roasted tomato chutney peppered with little seeds of spice.

For a main course, we ordered paella for two. My dining partner was surprised to see that it arrived not having the traditional yellow saffron look. The rice clearly was cooked in a stock contributing to a greater flavor profile. Lightly mixed with softly cooked down onions, green and red bell peppers, were the other components: rings of squid, small pieces of chicken (dark meat, again adding a greater depth of flavor), very tender shrimp, and the entire plate surrounded by succulent mussels. The paella, although with everything so tender and delicious seemed to lack one element, and the thought was fresh lime wedges for squeezing. It just had those light flavorful coastal elements begging for a light spray of citrus.

To accompany this and to use as a more “hands on” eating utensil, we ordered a basket of the mint naan. Mint becomes timid when cooked and its presence here was pleasantly noticeable. They have worked their magic to keep the fresh minty flavor alive while the naan hits the high temperatures of the tandoor.

Chef sent to the table, not knowing that we were tasting our way through the menu, an amuse bouche of braised lamb which was so delicate and lightly covered in an infused sauce of traditional Indian spices… fantastic.

At the end, we cooled our palates with an interesting and well-made coconut flan. It was topped with a dollop of freshly whipped creme fraiche and a slice of strawberry. Drizzled around the dish were whisps of strawberry coulis.

Orissa will be repeated many times as there is so much to taste. Vindaloo, watch out!

Orissa

14 Cedar Street

Dobbs Ferry, New York
914.231.7800

Buying locally produced food directly from farmers and bakers is about to become a year ’round affair for Mamaroneck residents. On Tuesday, July 20^th an array of local growers and food producers will set up their tents off Route 1 in Harbor Island Park for the opening day of the weekly outdoor Mamaroneck Farmers Market.  The market, which is sponsored by the Village of Mamaroneck, will run from 1:30pm to 6:30pm every Tuesday thereafter, rain or shine, until November 23rd.  Later in the winter the Mamaroneck Farmers Market will re-open on Saturdays indoors at St. Thomas’ Episcopal Church on Boston Post Road.

“We want to encourage people to shop more often at farmers markets,” says Miriam Haas, Director of Community Markets. “Having the outdoor market on a weekday with evening hours will make it more accessible for those who can’t get to the weekend farmers markets.” Parking should not be an issue, thanks to the Village of Mamaroneck, farmers market shoppers will have free parking for up to an hour. Shopper parking is available in Harbor Island behind the treatment plant and in the parking lot by the playground.

The market will feature:

• Organic breads and pastries from Bread Alone of Boiceville, NY
  
• European-style tarts from Dutch Desserts of Kinderhook, NY
  
• Old-fashioned barrel pickles from Doctor Pickle of Wayne, NJ
  
• Cedar Hill Farm of Amenia, NY will be selling beef and pork
  
• Meredith’s Bread of Kingston, NY will be offering hand-made quiche, jams, pies, cookies and breads
  
• Migliorelli Farm of Tivoli, NY will offer there will be fresh fruit, berries and vegetables and cider
  
• Newgate Farms of East Granby, CT will offer baked goods, fruit, plants and vegetables
  

Fresh tomatoes needing some attention

The procedure is so easy but just requires many hours in a low oven until they have concentrated their flavors.

Here is what to do:

• Preheat your oven to 180 degrees with the rack in the center position
• Slice your tomatoes (easier to do with a serrated knife) into 1/4 inch rounds. Try to slice them into even sizes so they cook at the same rate.
• Assemble a cookie cooling rack on top of a sheet pan
• Place the tomatoes onto a cookie cooling rack, evenly spaced, to allow for air circulation.
• Put the tray of tomato slices onto the center rack inside the oven for approximately 8 to 10 hours, checking for consistency.
• You want the tomatoes to be dehydrated with that rich chewy sun dried tomato consistency.
• Allow them to cool and remove to a jar drizzling them with olive oil to cover.

Use them on salads, in marinades, and sandwiches. Delicious.

Tomatoes sliced into 1/4 inch rounds

Rich concentrated sun (oven) dried tomatoes

At this time of year, your garden may be providing fresh garlic to you.  My friend Larry, an avid gardener, just harvested some young fresh garlic from his property this week.

If you aren’t growing your own this year, hit the farmers markets as this is the time!

The additional benefit of the fresh garlic head are the chives and scapes.

Generally available in June or early July, garlic scapes are the flower stalk of the garlic whereas chives are the tender leaves. Garlic needs to be harvested on the early side if you plan on utilizing the scapes. They are best used when they are curled. As the plant matures, the stalks become more straight in order to support the plant. When that happens, the scapes become less tender and less aromatic.

The entire stalk and flower of the garlic plant are edible.  The stalk (scape) has a mild garlic flavor and aroma.  Scapes provide a garlic essence to your dishes that are not as strong as using the cloves.

In the kitchen, scapes are great to add to stews, your marinades, salads, sandwiches, pasta dishes, the possibilities are up to you.  Scapes can also be sauteed and eaten as a side dish along with grilled meats or fish.

Here is just one idea to get you going with your scapes:

Garlic Scape Pesto

1 pound garlic scapes
1 cup grated parmesan cheese
1/2 cup to 1 cup (depending on desired consistency) of Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 Tbls freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ cup lightly toasted pine nuts or walnuts (optional)

1. Chop the garlic scapes into 3 inch lengths.
2. Place the scapes into a food processor and pulse until pureed.
3. Add the parmesan and nuts continuing to pulse until smooth.
4. Add lemon juice then slowly drizzle in the olive oil as the food processor runs and continue until all the oil is combined into the garlic mixture.
5. Store in an air-tight jar in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or freeze for future winter use.

Your pesto can be spread on breads, used on sandwiches or drizzled on grilled meats and fish.

This is our final opportunity to have a tasting at the beautiful winery in Mohegan Lake.  Make it a weekend destination this week!

Final Weekend at the Winery (until September): Friday July 9th & Saturday July 10th 2010
4PM – 2AM

Main Feature: EBERLE Estates Winery

• 2006 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
• Paso Robles, California

Select & Taste three (3) wines from our featured list – Free (4pm-7pm)

The Winery at St George
1715 E. Main St.(rt6) Mohegan Lake, NY 10547

Free Admission / Cash Bar / Free Valet Parking
Complimentary Wine Tasting from 4-7PM Fridays and Saturdays
www.TheWineryAtStGeorge.com