Westchester Eats

Tarry Lodge in Port Chester has updated its menu for the fall. Look for new pastas including the perfect autumn complement of carbonara. In addition they have added a simple yet delicious bavette to the menu (photo below). Bavette are similar to tagliatelle yet slightly thinner. They are served with little tomatoes and tiny sprigs of lemon basil. Tarry Lodge always keeps it simple and delicious.

Tarry Lodge

18 Mill Street

Port Chester NY 10573

914.939.3111

Tomatillo, a little eatery in Dobbs Ferry, does not feature authentic Mexican cuisine overall; but local produce and the inspiration for fresh innovative fare serve it well. Many of their seasonal ingredients come right from the Hudson Valley including organic produce from the impressive Stone Barns Center.

The restaurant is small in square footage and features a very high crenulated ceiling which can raise noise levels a bit when busy. Walls complement one another with bright yellows, oranges, and greens. Funky little sculptures hang playfully from the walls providing a little smile and whimsy. What the giraffe in ballet slippers has to do with “Mexican” food is just another statement that you are not in Mexico, this is “Mexchester” as the verbiage on the sign notes.

The vibe is light. You most likely will be seated by friendly faces eager to get you into your meal. Once seated, freshly made tortilla chips arrive at the table with a bright red flavorful salsa. Glancing at the menu, one might want to try the guacamole which is made daily. The “guac” was good but needed a little fresh lime juice blended into it. A few squeezes brought it up-to-snuff.

Looking to the counter area, you will notice fresh beers on tap and a huge selection by the bottle. The beer list features the local brews of Captain Lawrence and interesting not-so-usual offerings. For example, take the delicious and refreshing Allagash White from Maine, or the interesting flavors of Brooklyn brewed Kelso’s Saison. Wine and good quality tequilas are available too.

A quesadilla is a good first choice. They are offered with numerous fillings and choice of sauces. One option is to have it filled with grilled skirt steak. It was so wonderfully smoky and tender, accompanied with cilantro pesto for spreading or dipping. If you like cilantro, you will be pleased as it paired well with the skirt steak and tortilla, hot from the griddle.

Next up, tacos of all kinds. Again, choice of sauces/salsas. If you move through the menu you may want to consider making good choices while matching sauces to fillings so as not to repeat a combination. Although they offer several sauces, it can be a bit challenging. You can order two tacos for one price which are served with Spanish rice and black beans. One option is the bean taco with lettuce, pico de gallo (very small dollop here, could have been more substantial) and what they call a BBQ chipotle sauce. The sauce was a nice surprise. BBQ sauces can be a bit on the sweet side and this was not. Also there was a slight element of heat from the chipotle but not overbearing and of course the wonderfully smoky characteristic of chipotle (a smoked jalapeño). Taco number two was the fish taco which was lightly fried in a cornmeal crust. Very light, very tender. This is served with a tomatillo sauce. The tomatillo had it characteristically tangy bite. The tortillas were very traditional and made from masa harina.

A dish called the three tamales may catch your interest and consider giving it a whirl. The tamales, when presented were already removed from the husk with a spooning of the paired sauce. These savory tamales were tender and beautifully steamed with just enough savory filling to complement. Filling and sauce combos consisted of: Chicken and mole, pork and chipotle, poblano and serrano. Although portions were small, the masa can be filling and this is a fun dish to share with a friend.

Burritos are “build your own”. If the idea of constructing your own is daunting, they offer eighteen choices already designed for you with fun names like “Mister Shrimp, Earth ‘n’ Turf, or Syd Fishus.” The Iron Man burrito was quite good. The burrito’s size is a bit much for one person. This one was stuffed with grilled skirt steak, red peppers, rice, pinto beans, and chipotle. It had a bit of a zing, so the icy beer was necessary or some iced water on hand. Very filling and a great value at $10.95.

Finally, it was time for homemade flan.  Although a small portion, one really doesn’t “need” bigger. The custard was tender, not rubbery, and it was drenched in that wonderful just slightly sweet and caramelized dulce de leche sauce.

If you’re looking for “authentic” Mexican, this isn’t for you. If you’re looking for Mexican inspired dishes with interesting new twists, then go for it! Just like it’s name, “Tomatillo.” It may look like a tomato on the outside, but it isn’t.

Tomatillo

13 Cedar Street

Dobbs Ferry, NY

914.478.2300

The French doors were open onto the sidewalk and the lovely little tables outside just seemed so refreshing. The sign on the door also referred to it as a wine bar.

The colors of Orissa are fun, a mix of soft yet deep tones, and can put a smile on your face. They are relaxing. Our server left table choice up to us, so we sat just inside at the edge to feel the breeze. 

Sparkling water or “New York’s Finest Tap” was offered immediately. The menus are weighty. One is dining, the other is strictly wine and beer selections. King Fisher, an Indian favorite brew, is on the menu and I was thinking perfect for spicy food. However, looking at the food menu, it seemed that a very light red or a white wine would be in order. I was thinking that a lighter red would be enjoyable so I questioned the intensity of the 2007 French Carmenere. Our server immediately said he’d be back to give us a taste to determine for ourselves. Well done.

The bottle could have been at a better temperature, so our server upon request, gave the bottle a light and short icy bath, and we enjoyed it thoroughly. A good pairing for what was to come. Wine selections are diverse and nicely priced. Many of the wines are also available by the glass.

Perusing the menu, it is clear that the food is Indian/Goan inspired cuisine, not traditional Indian food as most of us know it. The menu was crafted by Hari Nayak who is a CIA graduate and has worked in India and North America. He provides consulting talents. Parents will be pleased to know that there is a very interesting and concise children’s menu consisting of offerings such as naan pizza, grilled kabobs, and a bison burger. The owners are local Dobbs Ferry residents, Niall Cain and Cynthia Caracta. He is an architect by trade and she is a pharmaceutical researcher. They opened the doors, located at 14 Cedar Street, earlier this year.

We began the meal with a most amazing “side dish” which we used as an appetizer. The portion was quite generous, too.  The menu refers to this as Bhindi Amchoor. Thinly sliced cuts of okra which had been fried and dusted with a dry mango powder. In the mix, were sweet/vinegary slices of tomato and onion. Finely chopped stems of cilantro and leaves were integrated throughout. The okra, which can often be slimy in texture, were nicely crisp and the combination was delicious and very refreshing. In addition to the okra concoction were slices of garlic naan and a ramekin containing a cooked down roasted tomato chutney peppered with little seeds of spice.

For a main course, we ordered paella for two. My dining partner was surprised to see that it arrived not having the traditional yellow saffron look. The rice clearly was cooked in a stock contributing to a greater flavor profile. Lightly mixed with softly cooked down onions, green and red bell peppers, were the other components: rings of squid, small pieces of chicken (dark meat, again adding a greater depth of flavor), very tender shrimp, and the entire plate surrounded by succulent mussels. The paella, although with everything so tender and delicious seemed to lack one element, and the thought was fresh lime wedges for squeezing. It just had those light flavorful coastal elements begging for a light spray of citrus.

To accompany this and to use as a more “hands on” eating utensil, we ordered a basket of the mint naan. Mint becomes timid when cooked and its presence here was pleasantly noticeable. They have worked their magic to keep the fresh minty flavor alive while the naan hits the high temperatures of the tandoor.

Chef sent to the table, not knowing that we were tasting our way through the menu, an amuse bouche of braised lamb which was so delicate and lightly covered in an infused sauce of traditional Indian spices… fantastic.

At the end, we cooled our palates with an interesting and well-made coconut flan. It was topped with a dollop of freshly whipped creme fraiche and a slice of strawberry. Drizzled around the dish were whisps of strawberry coulis.

Orissa will be repeated many times as there is so much to taste. Vindaloo, watch out!

Orissa

14 Cedar Street

Dobbs Ferry, New York
914.231.7800

Life keeps us quite busy. Sometimes there is a need to grab something “on the go.” However, that something does not need to be fast-food.

A small take-out place in Croton-on-Hudson called Mex-to-Go can be just the answer.

You “build” your burrito or taco by selecting from various menus. First one must choose the item (burrito, taco, enchilada) then move on to menu number two for the filling.  Fillings go from vegetarian to seafood to roasted or grilled meats. Finally, the salsa must be selected.

Today’s “grab and go” was a burrito with spiced pork al pastor. There was a deeply cooked essence to the meat which made it comforting.  The vegetables were fresh and cool against the perfectly cooked rice. This was all tucked inside a soft flour tortilla, and the green manolo salsa was a great match.

As a final treat, this local eatery makes chocolate chipotle brownies. Yes, there is an earthy element with a slight “kick.” Something different.

If you have an interesting local “food find”, please zap an email out so we can let everyone know.

325 S Riverside Ave
Croton-on-Hudson, NY 10520-2924
(914) 271-8646

Although the name may not be easy to pronounce, there is a new restaurant of note in Croton-on-Hudson. We are finding locals referring to it simply as TK’s. The restaurant is located within the Shop Rite Center at a corner spot.

The renovated color scheme and overall decor are calming…Sage green walls, tables with Kraft paper and softly lit. A certain change from Sophia’s, the previous pizzeria that occupied the space.

When you walk in, there is a bar to the left which has a nice wine selection, both by bottles and by the glass. They serve locally made beer on tap by Captain Lawrence Brewery in Pleasantville in addition to Peroni, and others. If you choose to sit at the bar you most likely will be served by Sylvan who is a trained mixologist. He has mentioned that he has some plans ahead for infused spirits to push us beyond the standard cocktail.

Ahead of you is a pizza station. Joe, is your pizza guy. His focus is just on the pizzas, flatbreads, and all things dough which fly out of his station. This is not your everyday pizza however. TK’s (we’ll just call it that) serves an interesting selection of flatbreads and pizzas in addition to the standard fare. For example, one interesting flat bread you can order is the fresh mozzarella (yes, they make it fresh there everyday!) which arrives with a delicious red sauce that is cooked down and oh so flavorful.  My favorite to date is the olive version with shaved red onions and just the right amount of cheese to accompany it. The crust has a crunch to it and is so light – - makes for a great starter.  They have so many interesting pizza offerings. One recent tasting included a shrimp scampi pizza. Absolutely delicious.

If you really want a treat, order the Sicilian bites.  Soft yet slightly chewy little fluffy squares  – - almost focaccia like topped with the fresh mozzarella and the zippy tomato sauce. Mmmmmmm.

Local owners Chuck and Ursula Casquarelli wanted a place where people could come for easy going, yet interesting food, without having to travel too far. They are well on their way to already achieving their goal.  TK Casquarelli’s derives the “TK” from the first letter of each of their daughters’ first names.

I have enjoyed beginning the meal with a fresh salad.  One in particular that I enjoyed was baby arugula complemented by sliced pears and candied walnuts. The vinaigrette lightly coated the greens and the seasoning was very balanced.

Something a bit more decadent were the fried calamari. The crust is light and flaky and not oily whatsoever – - Almost a salt and pepper bite to it. The calamari were paired with a slightly spicy red sauce (think Fra Diavolo) and something even more interesting was a brilliantly green chimichurri sauce. The sauce is complex and I loved the heat component it delivered.

CIA trained and experienced chef, John Chevalier, brings his many years of culinary experience to TK’s. I could make many interesting meals just by eating my way through his appetizers and salads. I enjoyed egg battered slices of mozzarella which were lightly sautéed and paired with a reduced red sauce.

Certainly there are times when we just want something quick and easy and of course a slice of pizza can handle that. In addition, they are serving sandwiches, but again, not just the ordinary. Try the Shrimp Ragazzo Povero (Po Boy) with the tomato mayo. Absolutely delicious, but be warned the portion size is enormous and can easily feed two.

On one lunch visit, chef John surprised us with a fantastic taste of freshly sliced ripe tomatoes accompanied by a creamy ricotta drizzled in fruity olive oil. The colors were stunning and it was great to eat something so simple, yet so fresh.

The perfect meal we shared one rainy evening was the baked lasagne. The pasta was tender and the sauce had just the right combination of interesting flavors and textures. Again, a substantial portion, so we happily ate that with a salad starter.

Mostly a “winter dish”, at least with my upbringing, comes the pasta carbonara.  Traditionally made with spaghetti, Chef John, adds his own twist. He uses a spiraled pasta. Not everyone does this dish well, he does. The smoky pancetta is just the right amount and nicely crisped. The sauce is unctuous and creamy – - many think carbonara is made with cream, but in fact, it is finished with beaten eggs just at the end before serving. A decadent and tasty finish. He does this well.

TK Casquarelli’s is young and growing quickly. Certainly, as with all new businesses, there are some kinks to work out here and there. They have an interesting menu which caters to traditionalists around pizza and Italian food as well as new and forward thinking palates. We are happy to have discovered them and look forward to watching them thrive and keeping us well fed and happy.

TK Casquarelli’s

440 S. Riverside Avenue

Croton on Hudson, NY 10520

Phone:  (914) 271-2800

Great dining at Goldfish Oyster Bar & Restaurant in Ossining. Check it out.

A great meal at Mauro’s Restaurant in Ossining! Hudson Valley Restaurant Week continues.  Check it out!

It is Hudson Valley Restaurant Week and I have the opportunity to guest-write for Liz Johnson’s SmallBites.

Here is the first entry on La Bocca Ristorante located in White Plains.

Westchester community is all abuzz about today’s ribbon-cutting opening of Karma Lounge.

Ossining Mayor Bill Hanauer cut the ribbon at the noon opening, along with owner John and Cecilia Sarcone. Even the Monsignor attended and gave his blessings.

On Main Street in Mt. Kisco lies a gem of a restaurant – - The Fish Cellar.  This restaurant owned by Joe and Joni DiMauro really is a treat. Down the steps into a warm and cozily lit dining room one finds a perfectly sized bar for dining alone or with a friend, a well-stocked and presented raw bar and tables just perfectly separated as to fit a crowd without feeling crowded.

Felipo, our waiter of Sicilian heritage, was attentive and made us feel right at home. The buzz in the room isn’t overwhelming and the crowd is well-heeled in a classy/casual way.

The dishes are not complex but flavorful and presented beautifully.

Crispy and tender buttermilk fried calamari had just the right zing paired with the Thai sriracha.  Crisp head of romaine lettuce in an herb vinaigrette with shaved Parmesan had a cool and flavorful crunch to wake up the palate and very simply presented.

The Ricotta Gnocchi could have been more tender.  When made from ricotta, Italians refer to the dumplings as “Gnudi.”  Have definitely had better, however the lobster marinara was well-balanced with flavorful little pieces of lobster meat throughout.

The Yellow Fin Tuna is served rare in a soy and ginger glaze – - so fresh and tender with a crunchy peanut black pepper crust. The soba noodles on the side with tahini complement the fish very well.

One very interesting dish is the Swordfish Chop which literally is Frenched and on the bone – - a rarity. Tender, moist and delicious. This was topped with a mushroom and tomato reduction and paired with a creamy potato gratin which almost had the mouth-feel of a silky polenta with a hint of blue cheese.  Delicious.

The wine list has something for most and the cocktail menu is fun and creative. One interesting drink is the “Healthtini” which is made from organic vodka mixed with fresh pomegranate juice.  I will say it is more on the vodka side and the cocktail had just a blush of pomegranate. No complaints though!

The owners have a long history of being “green” and have a very strong environmental ethic.  They also own Mt. Kisco Seafood which has provided some of the best seafood to Westchester for over 30 years.  They know their craft.

A very pleasurable experience.

Open Tuesday – Sunday for dinner

The Fish Cellar

213 Main Street

Mt. Kisco, NY 10549

914-666-4448

www.fishcellar.com