Orangicello – - a winter treat

Most recently we made limoncello with organic lemons, it was delicious and enjoyed by so many. Then came the idea to use oranges for a more winter “feel.” The result is beautiful and tasty. I simply followed the same limoncello recipe but substituted oranges.  Give it a try ;)

oranges ready to be zestedzested orangesmacerating orange zestbottling orangicello

The Fish Cellar — a cozy gem

On Main Street in Mt. Kisco lies a gem of a restaurant – - The Fish Cellar.  This restaurant owned by Joe and Joni DiMauro really is a treat. Down the steps into a warm and cozily lit dining room one finds a perfectly sized bar for dining alone or with a friend, a well-stocked and presented raw bar and tables just perfectly separated as to fit a crowd without feeling crowded.Buttermilk Fried Calamari

Felipo, our waiter of Sicilian heritage, was attentive and made us feel right at home. The buzz in the room isn’t overwhelming and the crowd is well-heeled in a classy/casual way.

The dishes are not complex but flavorful and presented beautifully.Oysters & Clams

Crispy and tender buttermilk fried calamari had just the right zing paired with the Thai sriracha.  Crisp head of romaine lettuce in an herb vinaigrette with shaved Parmesan had a cool and flavorful crunch to wake up the palate and very simply presented.romaine

The Ricotta Gnocchi could have been more tender.  When made from ricotta, Italians refer to the dumplings as “Gnudi.”  Have definitely had better, however the lobster marinara was well-balanced with flavorful little pieces of lobster meat throughout.Ricotta Gnocchi in Lobster Marinara

The Yellow Fin Tuna is served rare in a soy and ginger glaze – - so fresh and tender with a crunchy peanut black pepper crust. The soba noodles on the side with tahini complement the fish very well.Tuna

One very interesting dish is the Swordfish Chop which literally is Frenched and on the bone – - a rarity. Tender, moist and delicious. This was topped with a mushroom and tomato reduction and paired with a creamy potato gratin which almost had the mouth-feel of a silky polenta with a hint of blue cheese.  Delicious.Swordfish Chop

The wine list has something for most and the cocktail menu is fun and creative. One interesting drink is the “Healthtini” which is made from organic vodka mixed with fresh pomegranate juice.  I will say it is more on the vodka side and the cocktail had just a blush of pomegranate. No complaints though!

The owners have a long history of being “green” and have a very strong environmental ethic.  They also own Mt. Kisco Seafood which has provided some of the best seafood to Westchester for over 30 years.  They know their craft.

A very pleasurable experience.

Open Tuesday – Sunday for dinner

The Fish Cellar

213 Main Street

Mt. Kisco, NY 10549

914-666-4448

www.fishcellar.com

Pollo all’Aceto (Chicken in Vinegar Sauce)

pollo all aceto platedThis dish is made in various ways throughout Italy and France.  In France, it is bistro cooking; and in Italy, we would see it in various trattorias.  It is simple, yet the result is “warming” and welcoming. Make this for your friends and they will thank you.

  • 3 lb. chicken parts – - skin-on thighs and legs recommended
  • 8 Tbl. butter (one stick cut in half)
  • 3 Tbl. extra virgin olive oil
  • kosher salt and freshly ground pepper for seasoning
  • 1 cup good quality red wine vinegar
  • 1 cup good quality chicken stock
  • 1 14.5 oz. can organic diced tomatoes, drained
  • 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary, optional, plus more for garnish if desired

Directions

Season the chicken with salt and pepper

Heat the olive oil and 4 Tbl. of butter in a skillet until butter is at a light foam

Sauté the chicken pieces, skin side down for approximately 5 minutes, then turn and sauté for an additional 3 – 4 minutes.  You are looking to caramelize to develop flavor.

Remove the chicken pieces to a plate and set aside.

Drain all but 1 Tbl. of fat from the skillet.

Standing back from the skillet, carefully pour the red wine vinegar into it stirring to remove the flavorful fond from the bottom of the pan (deglazing).

Place the chicken pieces back into the pan and continue cooking until the vinegar is reduced by half.  While the vinegar reduces, occasionally turn the chicken so it becomes glazed with the reduction sauce.

Place the rosemary sprigs into the pan so they can flavor the sauce and add the drained tomatoes and the chicken stock.  Lightly bring the seasoning back into balance by adding just another sprinkling of salt and a few grinds of pepper.

Once the sauce comes to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer.

Cover and allow to cook for an additional 30 minutes.

Remove the chicken to warm plates and remove/discard the cooked rosemary sprigs from the pan.

Turn up the heat and reduce the sauce further while tasting for balanced seasoning.

Once the sauce has reduced, turn off the heat and mount the sauce with the remaining butter stirring it in until it rounds out the sauce creating a glossy texture.

Spoon the tomato and sauce over the chicken pieces to serve, garnishing with a rosemary sprig if desired.

Enjoy.

Serves two hungry, or four as an amuse bouche.

New Executive Chef @ Mauro’s in Ossining

Below is the bio on the new chef at Mauro’s Restaurant in Ossining.  I have had several of his dishes and he is developing a new menu to be unveiled soon.

Giuseppe Bologna recently took over the Executive Chef position at Mauro’s Restaurant and Bar in Ossining, New York. Chef Giuseppe brings years of experience and tradition to the kitchen at Mauro’s.

“I was very happy to be invited to join the staff at Mauro’s, to be part of a re-birth of this restaurant that has been part of the community for close to 20 years.”

Family:

Giuseppe is a native of Westchester County. As might be obvious from his name, his parents are of Italian descent from the town of Capaci in Sicily. Growing up around great Italian cooking and recipes was an instrumental factor that has guided Giuseppe’s cooking repertoire.

Culinary Career:

Chef Giuseppe graduated from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park in 2004. In addition, he also holds a degree in Psychology from the State University of New York.

Giuseppe’s passion and talent were evident early in his career. Chef David Anderson of Strega Restaurant in Pleasantville NY recognized this passion and moved Giuseppe into the sous chef position only one month after graduation from the CIA. Giuseppe has honed his craft at kitchens such as Osteria del Circo and at Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills.

Culinary Style:

Working at these fine establishments allowed Giuseppe to further develop his distinctive culinary cuisine with origins derived from his Italian heritage. He has taken these skills and worked them into a unique artistry that gives traditional Italian dishes a delicate twist.

Through his guidance, Mauro’s will offer seasonal menus featuring sustainable, locally sourced meats and produce. Chef Giuseppe adds, “I would describe my style as simple, allowing the quality of the ingredients to speak for themselves.”

Owners Joanne and Don Delle Bovi add, “We keep our ears to the ground and continue to offer dining choices suggested from customer feedback and surveys. Giuseppe brings a passion for food that is apparent in every dish that comes out of our kitchen. His background, family traditions and experience allow us to offer exciting menu choices. The feedback is already very positive.”

Mauro’s

199 Main Street

Ossining, NY 10562

914-941-2662

La Monica’s Salumeria – a Croton update

salumoiFormerly the Harmon Deli, the name has now changed to La Monica’s Salumeria. A salumeria, by definition, is a store that offers lines of cured meats such as salamis, prosciutto, a variety of cheeses and the like. The word on the street is that the family made this change to honor their Sicilian heritage and to bring more authentic Italian fare to the Village of Croton-on-Hudson.

 

Inside, you’ll find authentic dried pastas from Italy, imported olive oils, canned tomatoes,  and other treats.  A small case offers frozen ravioli and cavatelli. Hanging above the counter are sweet and hot cured salumi made on premise.  Another homemade delicacy is the freshly pulled mozzarella.  It was creamy, fresh and very delicious. On top of the counter is a basket resplendent with large chunks of wrapped cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano,  the king of Italian cheeses,and the grassy and subtle nutty sheep’s milk cheese known as Pecorino Romano. Their authenticity is validated  by the famous stamped rinds. As I often see in Italian restaurants too, the spelling is off – - but the product is real.

formaggio

 

La Monica’s continue its tradition of creating many interesting Italian sandwiches with names clearly coming from aunts, uncles, friends and even one called the Carmen Unisex, named for the salon next door.

The take-out menu has much to offer for the party set or even for those who like to gather with friends for the big game.

Show your support for this “deli”/Salumeria with great intentions and a nice addition to this charming town.

La Monica’s Salumeria

358 South Riverside Avenue

Croton-on-Hudson, NY 10520

914-271-3946

salumeria

Limoncello for the season

Making Limoncello is easy, it just requires the patience of a few weeks. Once it is completed, you will have an Italian treat at the ready in your freezer for guests after a nice dinner.

Making Lemoncello

The Video: Making Limoncello

Ingredients

  • 1750 mL good vodka
  • 20 organic lemons
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 cup filtered water

Although you don’t have to filter the vodka, I find that running it through a filter several times gives a “cleaner” result. I use Brita.

  1. Filter the vodka four times through a filter (such as Brita)
  2. Put the vodka into a clean glass jar
  3. Using a microplane, remove the zest (yellow only) and place all zest into the vodka.  Seal the jar.
  4. Keep the mixture in a relatively shady area (not exposed to sunlight) – - but in a place that it is noticeable to you.  Every day or so as you pass by, simply give the jar a little “swirl” so the zest continues to interact with the vodka and the natural lemon oils extract. I would do this for a minimum of four weeks, and six weeks is better.
  5. Using a coffee filter (I use my Krups gold filter), separate the now very yellow lemony limoncello from the zest.  Discard the zest.
  6. In a sauce pan, mix one cup of sugar and one cup of filtered water.  Bring to a simmer while stirring.  Once the sugar comes to a boil, the syrup is complete.  Remove from the heat and allow to cool completely.
  7. Continue to mix, in small portions, the simple syrup into the limoncello. Stir and taste until you have reached the citrus/sweetness combination that meets your taste.
  8. Pour mixture into glass bottles, leaving some room for any expansion.  Place in the freezer.  Your limoncello will now be icy and syrupy cold and ready to serve as a cordial following any meal.

Brussels Sprouts and Pancetta – - a good marriage

Delicious combination of Brussels sprouts and pancetta make this a crowd pleasing side dish.

Delicious combination of Brussels sprouts and pancetta make this a crowd pleasing side dish.

This rustic combination of Brussels sprouts and smoky pancetta are a nice pair for a cold autumn evening.  Perfect served with a roasted chicken, turkey, or a pork tenderloin.

  • 1 pound of pancetta (or thick slab bacon) cut crosswise in thin strips
  • 1 Spanish onion thinly sliced
  • 10 garlic cloves, cut in half lengthwise
  • 2 pounds Brussels Sprouts, stem end removed and halved
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

In a deep skillet, cook the pancetta over medium-high heat, allowing the fat to render and the meat to crisp.  Leaving the rendered fat in the pan, transfer the crisped pork to a plate and set aside. Add the onion to the pan and saute, stirring often.  Just before the onion turns a nice golden color, add the garlic so it will lend its flavor without burning. Remove the onion and garlic mixture and transfer to the plate with the pancetta. Continuing to use the same oil, and working in batches, saute the Brussels sprouts, seasoning with a pinch of salt and a grind of pepper, until nicely crisped and browned. Add back to the pan the onion, garlic, and pancetta mixture and stir to incorporate. If the Brussel sprouts are still not tender, you may add a small amount of chicken stock. Turn heat to medium-low, cover the pan, and allow to simmer just until the sprouts are tender. Check seasoning and add salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

Serves 6 – 8

Bagna Cauda – - an Italian “hot bath”

Growing up, we ate this delicious dish each fall. Crisp vegetables, cured meats and crusty bread dipped in this “hot bath” of garlic, anchovies, and butter is unbelievably fantastic.  It hails from the northern parts of Italy. My mother’s family is from the Alto Adige region and now it’s time to imbibe again.

Serves 4 – 6

1/2 cup Extra-Virgin Olive Oil

3  Tb. butter

6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

10 salt-cured filets of anchovy, rinsed and boned, finely chopped

Kosher salt

Raw vegetables to your liking (carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, turnips, celery, radishes, endive, cardoons, radicchio, etc.) cut up

Sliced bread (good crusty artisan bread)

Thinly sliced cured meats (salami, prosciutto, etc.)

1. Heat the oil and butter in a sauce pan over medium-high heat until butter begins to foam.  Add the garlic and cook for approximately 10 – 15 seconds, do not allow to brown or burn.

2. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the finely chopped anchovies.  Stir and press them with a wooden spoon until they are broken into very small pieces or even until they “dissolve”. The hot bath will become cloudy.  This should take about 4 minutes.

3. Season with salt to your taste and serve immediately as a dip for your vegetable/meat/bread pairings. Some Italians, just before serving will add about 1 tsp. of vinegar, this is optional.

Note: Traditionally, Italians will serve this in a pot over a small candle to keep warm.

Another side note: We also only ate it on a Friday or Saturday evening as not to offend our office mates with the garlic.  Do try it, you’ll be blown away.

Quote

Quote to consider by one of my favorite authors who wrote about life and food:

“and above all-friends should possess the rare gift of sitting they should be able to, no eager, to sit for hours- three, four, six-over a meal of soup and wine and cheese, as well as one of 20 fabulous courses then, with good friends of such attributes, and good food on the board, and good wine in the pitcher, we may well ask-when shall we live if not now?” – - MFK Fisher

Thoughts?

Suggestion of the week: Tarry Lodge

You must, must, must visit Tarry Lodge in Port Chester.  This brainchild of Mario Batali, Lidia and Joe Bastianich is a jewel.

Tarry Column

Before the entire review is posted here, you must stop in, sit at the bar and order the guanciale pizza (made in a wood burning oven).  In the center is a poached egg yolk which you puncture with your fork and spread across the pizza’s surface creating a most unctuous sauce.  No sense of egg, just creamy delight.  More later on this eatery.  Beverage of choice with the pizza?  Go for “Joe’s Rosso” which is a red blend – - light and delicious to complement the pizza.

Tarry Lodge

18 Mill Street

Port Chester, NY 10573

914-939-3111

www.tarrylodge.com

Gritty Reporting from the Wilds of Westchester